AirGunTech: Re Engineering Spring Powered Air Rifles for smoothness, consistency, and to better suit UK power levels.

back to the 80/LGV Hybrid..the cocking shoe.

Sorry guys, got side tracked and forgot to update the build with how you modify the new style cocking shoe from HW to fit with the LGV piston etc…well here we go.

The new style cocking shoe does not ride down the slot in the piston any more, it slides down the slot in the action..and yes it scores the tube and yes it removes the bluing but it can still be silky smooth and for us with this modification its ideal.

lets have a look at the shoe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As you see its a lot different to the old style cocking shoe πŸ˜‰ BUT we have to modify this shoe to suit the LGV piston and the stroke of the piston which is related to the length of the cocking lever which acts upon it.

The following pics show you what to remove, i coloured the area to be removed in black, i do this with a dremel and cut off wheel, followed by a small sanding pad and a sharp fine file to round off the corners…then polish it smooth. You are looking to remove around 6 to 6.5mm of material, it does not need to be rounded any more but does need to have the sharp corners rounded off, it now pushed back the shirt of the piston which is acting square against it. if you do not remove this material the piston will slam into the cocking shoe and cocking arm on the firing cycle..so this is most important.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This should give you an idea how much material has to come off, take your time, make sure to deburr and smooth everything off.

You will also need to polish the sides of the cocking slot in the action, around 3mm either side of the slot will get marked up by the shoe so polish this back by taping 3mm to the side of the slot and polish the metal work from the tape to the slot… for the full length of the slot.

I have found a wonder lube for the cocking shoe, its also nothing short of incredible for trigger lubing and would you guess fishing rod reels which is what it was designed for πŸ˜‰

http://www.quantumfishing.com/series/3/225/Lubricants.aspx

Some of the airgunners in the USA are already using this for triggers, its available in the UK also…you need a few drops on to clean metal, spread it out..leave it to sit a while as it bonds to the steel, then feel the smoothness, its incredible πŸ˜‰

here are some pics of the shoe in place with the cocking arm:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As you can see I have the action taped off and polished either side of the slot..its sat with another application of Hot Sauce (its red if you did not guess ). You can see which way the shoe is orientated. Things to watch out for are the cocking arms may need some relieving so they will slot into the new shoe, and if you fail to remove enough material off the shoe the piston skirt will slam into it in the firing cycle..we are adapting components here so look out for this as you build..measure twice and cut once πŸ˜‰

You may want to polish the sides of the cocking shoe and the sides of the cocking slot in the action, all will do no harm and aid the smoothness, the 2 I have done here now are ridiculously smooth to cock and returning the barrel to the latched position is resistance free…really very very slick.

On the new 80’s they have this shoe already and they have a spring that acts upon the cocking lever, not sure what this spring does so if you have an idea or know what it does leave a comment so I may add it to this post..the more info we get the better πŸ˜‰

With the shoe modified and installed, the compression tube installed and fixed in place, the trigger sear modified and polished you should now have nothing more to do other than set the power. I have found the LGV spring does need shortening a little (2 coils for .22 and 1 coil off for .177), make sure you set the gun up over a chronograph and be prepared to get spring tweaking…it took me 20mins to get both guns right where they are awesome so its not a huge task πŸ™‚

If there is anything else you want to know about the conversion, add a comment and i will do my best to explain/add info.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • I love reading of your exploits, In the blog you hit on the HW55 with long transfer port.
    I own an original HW50 which shares the same mechanics as the 55 but for it running a synthetic seal as standard.
    I’ve been advised to open the long transfer port to 3.175 (currently 2.8) and am skeptical about this.
    As for not being able to get enough spring in your 55 have you considered having 6-8mm off the spring guide seat of the rear screw in block, this would allow for a further 2 coils when compressed.

  • Is that hot sauce oil or grease you are using ?

  • the liquid one

  • Think that spring underneath is to keep the cocking leaver from rattling πŸ™‚

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